Quick summary
- KM numbers come from the Standard Catalog of World Coins and identify a coin’s exact type; each country starts at KM# 1, with later types numbered in release order.
- Suffixes matter: a period separates close varieties such as KM# 553.1 and 553.2, and a letter can flag a different metal, such as aluminum KM# 45a.
- The Standard Catalog values coins in five grades, F, VF, XF, Unc and BU, and its prices are retail estimates for the U.S. market, best used as a starting point.
- Countermarks and chopmarks are stamps added after minting, often to confirm that a coin was genuine and of proper weight or silver content.
- Measuring a coin’s diameter and weight against the catalog specifications is the quickest way to confirm an identification before you buy.
Sorting through a box of foreign coins or reading an overseas dealer’s listing means running into a small dictionary of unfamiliar shorthand. Catalog numbers like KM# 164, words like exergue and abbreviations like XF each describe something specific, and knowing what they mean makes identification much easier. This glossary covers the terms beginners run into most often when buying or sorting coins from outside the United States.
Obverse, Reverse and How to Tell Them Apart
Obverse. The front of a coin, usually the side with a portrait or national symbol. On many European coins, a monarch’s head marks the obverse.
Reverse. The back of a coin, which typically carries the denomination or a decorative design. Some countries treat the sides the opposite way, so when in doubt, the side showing the value is a reliable guide.
Legend. The inscription that circles the main design, usually naming the country or ruler. A legend in an unfamiliar alphabet is often the fastest clue to where a coin came from.
Exergue. The space at the bottom of a design, often set off by a line, where a date or mintmark may appear.
Denomination. The stated face value, such as 5 francs or 10 pfennig. World coin catalogs list each country’s coins by denomination, from smallest to largest.
Catalog Numbers and What KM Means
KM number. The catalog number used for world coins, short for Krause-Mishler and named for Chester Krause and Clifford Mishler. Each country starts at KM# 1 for its lowest denomination at its earliest release date, and each later type is numbered in the order it was issued. When a seller writes KM# 164, that single number identifies the exact type, which is why dealers and auction houses worldwide use it. Before you spend money on an unfamiliar coin, a KM number gives you something specific to look up.
Standard Catalog of World Coins. The reference series behind KM numbers, first published in 1972 and now organized into volumes by century, from 1601 to the present. Each entry includes photographs, specifications, mintage figures and values in several grades, and many public libraries keep copies.
Variant suffix. A number after a period that separates close varieties of the same type. Egypt has both KM# 553.1 and KM# 553.2, for example.
Metal suffix. A letter after the number that flags a strike in a different metal. Finland’s KM# 45 is copper while KM# 45a is aluminum, and the difference matters because the two can look similar but weigh different amounts.
Pattern (Pn, P or E). A trial strike never intended for circulation. The Standard Catalog marks patterns as Pn in English, P in German and E in French, depending on the edition.
Piefort. A coin struck in limited numbers on an unusually thick blank. The catalog marks these separately because collectors seek them out.
Token (Tn). A coin-like piece that is not official government money, marked Tn in the catalog.
Mintmarks and Privy Marks on Foreign Coins
Mintmark. A small letter or symbol showing which mint struck the coin. Placement varies by country and era, and it is often the only visible difference between two otherwise identical types.
Privy mark. A small added symbol that marks a special occasion, an official or a particular production run.
Countermark. A stamp punched into a coin after it left the mint, often applied by a bank or trader to confirm the coin was genuine and of proper weight.
Chopmark. A countermark found on silver coins that circulated in China and Japan, where merchants punched their own marks to vouch for the silver content.
Edge Types From Reeded to Lettered
Edge. The third side of a coin, between the two faces. Catalogs list the edge type in the specifications for every entry, which makes it a useful check when confirming an identification.
Reeded edge. Parallel grooves running around the rim. If a type that should be reeded is smooth, that mismatch deserves a closer look.
Lettered edge. Words or symbols pressed into the edge, sometimes including a motto or mintmark.
Plain edge. A smooth, unmarked edge, common on smaller base-metal denominations.
Condition Terms You’ll See in Foreign Listings
The Standard Catalog values most coins in five grades, and sellers use the same shorthand. It is a different system from the numeric scale described in coin grading basics, but the logic is the same: less wear, higher grade.
F (Fine). Noticeable wear, with major design details still clear.
VF (Very Fine). Moderate wear, with more detail remaining than Fine.
XF (Extremely Fine). Light wear on the highest points of the design only.
Unc (Uncirculated). No wear from circulation.
BU (Brilliant Uncirculated). An uncirculated coin retaining its original mint luster.
Krause values are retail estimates based on the United States market, so treat them as a starting point rather than a price tag. Popular coins can bring more, and obscure types often bring less. Recent auction results and dealer offerings give a better picture of current prices.
Metals and Finishes: Base, Precious and Proof
Base metal. A non-precious metal such as copper or nickel, used for most everyday circulating coins.
Alloy. A mixture of two or more metals. Cupro-nickel, a blend of copper and nickel, and bronze, a blend of copper and tin, are common coin alloys.
Precious metal. Gold or silver. Many older foreign coins contain silver, and the same habits that help you spot silver coins in your change apply to a mixed world lot: check dates, weights and edge markings before assuming a coin is base metal.
Proof. A coin struck with specially prepared dies for a mirror-like finish and sold to collectors rather than released for circulation.
Collector’s tip
When a coin seems to match a catalog entry but something looks off, measure its diameter and weigh it. Confirming the specifications is the simplest way to separate a genuine type from a lookalike.
Once you can read a KM number, a mintmark and a grade abbreviation, foreign listings stop looking like a code. If you are building your first collection, How to Start a Coin Collection: A Beginner’s Guide covers the fundamentals, and How to Buy Coins Safely and Avoid Overpaying explains what to check before money changes hands.
Collector questions
What does KM stand for on a coin listing?
KM stands for Krause-Mishler, named for Chester Krause and Clifford Mishler, whose Standard Catalog of World Coins introduced the numbering. Each country’s coins start at KM# 1 for the lowest denomination at the earliest release date.
Are Krause catalog prices accurate?
They are retail estimates based on the United States market. Treat them as a starting point and check recent auction results and dealer offerings, since popular coins can sell for more and obscure types for less.
Do foreign coins use the same grading scale as U.S. coins?
World coin listings usually use abbreviations such as F, VF, XF, Unc and BU rather than a numeric scale. The logic is the same: less wear means a higher grade.
How can I identify a foreign coin with writing in an unfamiliar language?
Start with the legend and the images, then confirm the match by comparing the coin’s diameter, weight and metal to the catalog specifications. Measuring and weighing catches most lookalikes.
Coin values change with demand, condition and metal prices. This guide is general information, not an appraisal or investment advice.
